"Barbarian Days" by William Finnegan is a Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir that delves into the author's lifelong obsession with surfing. Finnegan takes readers on a journey through his experiences chasing waves around the world, from California to Hawaii to exotic locales like Samoa and Indonesia. The book explores the deep allure of surfing beyond just a sport, delving into themes of addiction, friendship, adventure, and self-discovery. Finnegan's vivid storytelling immerses readers in the exhilarating and sometimes perilous world of surfing, offering a unique blend of personal narrative, social history, and literary exploration.
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Penguin Books